Day 50, Cetate, RU – Danube km 893, RU

logbook 25 07 11

The official journey is over — but we’re still moving, still documenting, still listening as we bring the ship back home. The crew has changed: Gigi and Stephan have left; Markus and Christine remain on board, heading upstream with a changing cast of artist-friends. The logbook continues.

Day 50 on the water – and I still can’t imagine not being on the ship. Life on land is becoming harder to picture.

Today, we passed through Djerdap II – the first of two locks – and have now officially entered the Iron Gates region. We’re leaving Bulgaria behind and once again hopping between Serbia and Romania. Yet we’re not allowed to enter Serbia, as we’re still officially cleared in Schengen. Bureaucracy awaits us – along with poor data coverage.

Entering the Iron Gates feels like a shift. I suppose we already left the Danube Delta behind days ago, but now it truly feels like we’ve moved on — as if we have to say goodbye to its peaceful vastness and welcome Serbia again.